Today I developed a new sector at Oplotnica, together with Varga and Škofic. I just wanted to check out an old quarry, which turned out as a cool playing ground. It was so good, cause it didn't need any cleaning and cause it's so different to climb. We opened 8 lines up to 8a and there are still projects that need to be climbed. Now everyone can find something for himself and also an ambient and landings are very nice.
Yes, it's true. I was able to make an agreement with my coaches , to skip few training sessions and go to Ticino. First plan was to stay there for 5 days, but unfortunately rain made it shorter. If I'm honest, I'm not that sad as I used to be when those things happened, cause I sent almost everything I tried. Even warm ups were easier than usually.
So we arrived on Wednesday (on the day after big party back home) straight to Schaatental in Chironico, where I made quick ascent on Conqustador direct 8b - last time I tried it I fell from top for 3 times and this time went down very easily. We moved to Cresciano, where the weather was a bit better and there, I took down few things that I couldn't do few trips ago. So I sent La prue 8b and Un Ange Avec des Cornes 8a+ and on the next day Dream time stand 8a+ and Petit pas tapen 8a. For the next time I left Dream time and quite a lot of things in Chironico.
New season is about to start and I'm trying to finish some projects in Mišja peč. This place has been my playground for last 2 months and I've done some hard stuff by this time. I already told you about some hard routes, but I'm happy I can tell you, I also snet some more. So, around and after new year I have sent another 8c called Corrida, Gorenjski šnops 8b and very rare repeated No fly zone 8b. I have also on sighted Ljubezen na prvi pogled and Šunka, both graded 7c+. My biggest wish is to climb my first 9a and I luckily found one that fits my style. It is Xaxid hostel and I'm very happy, that I already climbed it with just one fall. So fingers crossed for this and of course for the new competition season!
Haven't published anything for a while, so I think I owe you a story. So, the first story is about La sportive legends only. I know, people expected a lot from me and I know I gave my best, but the result wasn't great. I really had not trained a lot before this comp, cause I was working and really didn't want to do a lot of bouldering in this time. This was also the reason that I fell from the top on the first boulder, which took me all the powers away, so I was quite lucky that I managed to climb at leaf one of them. This small "mistake" costed me a lot, but I know everything could turned different other way. Anyway, it was such a nice experience to compete with those pros and to see, that I'm actually not that far from them with my climbing. Hope I'll compete again next year and thanks everyone for such an amazing event!
Okay, the second story is about my rest from bouldering. I usually spend it on sport climbing routes and this year I chose Slovenian Primorska. I needed few days to get used of pumping and after few visits I climbed my first "hard" route. It was Pikova dama 8b and than few days later, I got even bigger surprise, when sending endurance masterpiece Karizma 8b+ in less than 10 tries. Later on, I had a small crisis when trying to send Človek ne jezise 8c, but was able to do moves in Xaxid hostel. After few frustrating days, I finally managed to connect the cruxes in first part and than decided to continue to the top. The conditions were a bit better than last time, so that try was successful for me. That was my first 8c+ with confirmed grade, but I can easily say, that the other two 8c+ (botulin an In time) FA's are even harder than this one. More surprising was, that this route is very long and that I consider my self as a boulder climber.
upper crux in Človek ne jezi se
Karizma, photo by: Luka Tambača
Here's also my movie from Font, if you haven't seen it yet:
This story is unfortunately about to end quite soon. But I must say that the last month that I spent here in Helsinki was amazing. Surrounded with such a nice people and crazy looking landscapes, makes you wanna stay or even live here.
So, my main purpose to came here, was route setting in Isatais open and to coach my friend Henna. She gave me a nice warm place to stay and I tried to give her best training sessions, so she can complete her goals. First thanks goes to her, cause without her, my trip to Finland would never happen and second, I have to thanks Niina and Anssi for hosting me and taking me to the rocks in this cold, winter conditions.
My main goal about climbing here, was to climb this very famous and nice looking line, called Globalist. When I first tried it this time, I thought it's gonna be piece of cake, but than on the same day, I got a split on my finger. It wasn't painful or anything, it was just pain in the ass, cause this crimper where I got a cut, is very delicate. In the hope, the skin is gonna grow, I was keep trying it and split it every time I tried it. There was a day, when I did it in two parts, but the conditions didn't let me do it after that. So I decided I'm gonna try something else, something dry and not so friction dependent. Quite only possible line to try around here, was Hypergravity 8b, where you have to walk for 45 minutes and you can only warm up on this line. On the first day, there was some snow already, but I was still able to do all the moves. Small amounts of training in last month, made me feel weak after first few moves, so I couldn't do it on first day. I rested for a day and on my last climbing day here, I managed to sent it. It was perfect end of day, cause I did it in night session, than we had a proper beer with Anssi and of course sauna for the end.
There was also a day, when we went to a small crag in Sipoo, where I climbed One for Sorrow (7c+/8a) and managed to do the first ascent of this beautiful arete on the left. I named it Level up and with the crux on the top, I think it deserves 7b(e5) grade. I also flashed One love 7c(+) in Globalist block.
Tomorrow, my trip is continuing to my last competition of this season to Stockholm (SWE), for La sportiva legends only. This is going to be my last contact with bouldering this year, cause it's been really physically exhausting doing it all year long. I'll do my best and I hope, I'll have some extra powers left to make this competition perfect.
You haven't heard from me for a while. Hope you won't blame me too much for being late, so I brought you some good news from Font and a local competition in Zagreb.
I promised my friends from Zagreb, that I'll be there for their local comp and must say, it wasn't that easy as it sounds. Well my mind was off for the comps, so it was hard to show all of my skills. Also competition was very strong, even though there were "only" few Slovenians and Borna from Zagreb. Okay, after all I did my best and won.
After few days we left to Font, to free my mind on some rocks. It was very nice, not rainy, but still wanted a bit lower temps.My goal was to sand an 8b, but unfortunately fell from the top of L'apparemment bas. I'm still proud that I was managed to flash two 8a's (L'apparemment and Rainbow rocket) and that I did every dyno that I tried. My hardest was Coup atomique 8a(+) than Red rocket 8a(+), Rainbow rocket 8a (flash), Soucis d'air 8a (#2 go) and Phobos moon 7c (flash).
I also sent few very nice and quite hard boulders such as Total eclipse 8a+, Big dragon 8a(+), The block 8a, Fata morgana 8a, Megalithe 7c+ (#2 go) and Sale gosse 7c and few 7c flashes as Welcome to Tijuana and La unit.
Here is a short movie with some of my ascents from a friend Juha:
After a hard competition season I took some time to enjoy my passions in outdoor climbing. Before adidas rockstars I climbed Working calss heros, 8b+ and after adidas, we went to Switzerland with our team. We were hosted by Swiss coach Urs and have to say we really had a great times together. I sent an 8a boulder in Lindental, named Myrdin and I also climbed an 8a+ route in Lehn, named Zentrifuge.
In Primorska, I was trying route Vražji Robert 8b, which is more or less protected with wedges. I was close, but didn't make it, so we spent some time in Črnotiče cave. There I sent two 8a boulders, named bionic.si and Red queen. In Ljubelj I did the second ascent in Pure philosophy 8a+.
Last week we went to Maltatal, where my goal was to climb Air 8a+, but it was a bit too hot for me, so I have to climb it next time. But I'm happy to make a first ascent of very unusual boulder. It's located just next to very famous Power of good-bye and it's very tricky to read. Cause of the very unusual movement, I called it Ringelspiel and graded it 8a+.
I also tried some alpine climbing for the first time in my life. I went to Križevnik with my friend Marko and he took me to very nice route, with very solid rock named Aktinidija. It's 250 meters long and it only has 2 wedges in whole route. It's not so hard to climb, but it's a bit different, when you have to trust gear, you put in.
On Sunday I also on sighted Silent alarm 8a in Bitnje and two days before I went to Graz for opening of the biggest bouldering gym in Austria, named Boulderclub.