Slowly Kruder turns into a alpine climber. This time I sent one of the "hardest" Slovenian multi pitch routes called "Das ist nicht kar tako". As usually in the mountains, the biggest problems to me was a hike up to the walls. Because to the house in a valley of Tamar is a dirt road, me and Alpi (Bojan Hribernik) decided to go there by bikes. It still took us about 20-30 minutes, but it was worth it on the way back. From there on you still have to walk for another hour and a half and also climb some easy stuff to get to the first pitch. From there you start immediately with a vertical 55 meters of solid 6b climbing, where I was the leading one. After that another 55 meters 6b with an easy boulder crux in between. Next pitch was supposed to be the hardest, with a 7b+ grade. I on sighted it and I think it deserves just 7a+ or may be 7b, because it's very short and a bit overhanging. From there on, there were another 4 pitches of 6b- 6c vertical climbing and finally I was standing under the last hard pitch of the route. I gave everything to on sight it, but the route won the battle. After 25 meters of slab climbing, I fell on the last crux on a very delicate slab. When I figured it out, I came down to the anchor, took some 10 minutes of rest and I was back again. With all my power I have from bouldering I did it up to the crux again and again with some bouldering skills did the last slaby crux as a real slab master. Comparing to the first hard pitch, this one is harder for sure. So I think first one is more like 7a+ and this one 7b (or maybe even 7b and 7b+). Alpi was leading the last 6b+ pitch and scared shit out of me when falling. I thought I'll fail it too, because I was already tired and I felt a bit cold. Also the pitch was a bit crumble. So Alpi somehow made it to the top and I was following. With such a huge motivation to send the whole thing, I turned on bouldering mode again and did it without any fears. This time the way back was so much easier than the last time in multi pitch climbing. We took some 6 abseils and than the descent on the scree. As I said, the way back from the house was also so much easier with the bikes. It felt so good when we made it back to the car, knowing that I sent alpine route that caused some problems even to some good Slovenian alpinists.
my suggestions for the grades are: L1: 6b+ (6c), L2: 6b, L3: 7a+ (7b), L4: 6c (6c+), L5: 6c, L6: 6a+ (6b), L7: 6b, L8: 7b (7b+), L9: 6c
This time, after a long break of writing I'm finally here with some different news. Because the World cup season was far from good, I decided to climb more on rocks, specifically with rope. So this story is all about a multi pitch that me and Vezi did yesterday.
Because our plan for September is to climb an 8b+ multi pitch in Switzerland, we knew we have to get used of the heights first. So the perfect route was Immer der Nase nach in Rochelstein (Grazer Bergland), which I already tried some years ago, but couldn't finish it. I lost my quickdraws and other stuff for multi pitch climbing somewhere, so problems started even before we got there. Luckily the route is so well protected, we only needed some quickdraws and helmets. We started at 6.15 from Celje in hope that we will climb at least some route in the shade. Unfortunately after a long hike to the route, sun was already in the wall. We didn't hesitate and immediately started with climbing, because we both wanted to red point all of the hardest pitches. I was leading the first real pitch (6c+) and Vezi was following fast. I gave Vezi a chance in next one, so he could try to on sight it. The 7c pitch was a bit too complicated for on sight, but he found all the tricks and came down to a ledge. It was my turn. Vezi gave me such a nice beta, so I didn't even think about falling. There was Vezi's try again. With some struggle he managed to sent this beautiful slaby 3rd pitch. And finally we were at "the Nose". Short, overhanging pitch with original grade of 10-/10 (8a+/b). The hardest moves are at the first 3 bolts, slapping slopers on very steep compression pillar. After that, you still have to be a bit careful on some tricky boulder moves. Even though we're boulder climbers, the moves were really hard to us, so we both agreed with 8b grade. So we both spent just few tries for that one and finaly we were under the last pitch. It was getting very hot and we were running out of water. I immediately started with climbing in last 7a pitch, which had a bit loosy rock. At the end of it, there was a bit weird slab climbing with some hidden holds. I fell. I was pissed of, because I did't all the hard work already and now I'm stuck here on one of the easiest part of the route. I came down and Vezi started with climbing. It was so close, that the same nightmare would happen to him as well, but it didn't. He did it and I didn't. He came down, we drunk all the water we had and it started to rain a bit. I knew, I only have one more chance. It stopped raining, sun came back and the battle began. I was climbing fast and all the time I had it in my head, I'm not supposet to fail. Luckily, I exacly knew what I have to do, so I did it too. Such a release! But new battle begins. 1 and a half hour of descent without water. We were walking down as fast as we could, but our lags were so tired we barley walked. We reached the car. I opened the car- I had another bottle of water, which was boiling from the heat, but it felt good. The temperature at the car was 40°C. Anyway, mission was accomplished. Next stop was McDonalds and the day was almost over!
The week before I also climed some route like Povodni mož 8b+, Ritem v zraku 8a+ on sight, Alta area L3 8a on sight and Hello Kitty 8a flash. Also bolted a new route in Kotečnik- needs some glue, but feel free to try it.
In Rocky mountains I did a very nice bouldering tick list in a day. I sent The kind traverse 8a 2nd go, Veritas assis 8a flash, Storm shadow 8a+ and Veritas low 8a+.
It's so sad, when I sit on sofa and realize, that I won't be back to Font for at least until October. From on, it's going to be really hard to train in the gym, but luckily my will is to strong to feel sad about it. Feels so good to be strong and knowing that I still have some time left to get even stronger. About Font, I only prepared some photos of our great coach Roman Krajnik and a tick list of what I climbed and what I should have climbed. On first few days I didn't send anything hard, but on 4th day of a trip I sent first 8a. It was quite easy one, named Synapses. After that, I came so close to The big island 8c, which I did in 2 parts and also had a great sending mode on my 5th day of climbing. I one day I sent Tigre et Dragon 8a, Le Tuit du Greau 8a, Magic Circus 8a and 3rd ascent od L'illusion du choix 8b. I also flashed some problems up to 7c.
On the last day I did Rainbow rocket for 3 times in 30 seconds :)
Today I developed a new sector at Oplotnica, together with Varga and Škofic. I just wanted to check out an old quarry, which turned out as a cool playing ground. It was so good, cause it didn't need any cleaning and cause it's so different to climb. We opened 8 lines up to 8a and there are still projects that need to be climbed. Now everyone can find something for himself and also an ambient and landings are very nice.
Yes, it's true. I was able to make an agreement with my coaches , to skip few training sessions and go to Ticino. First plan was to stay there for 5 days, but unfortunately rain made it shorter. If I'm honest, I'm not that sad as I used to be when those things happened, cause I sent almost everything I tried. Even warm ups were easier than usually.
So we arrived on Wednesday (on the day after big party back home) straight to Schaatental in Chironico, where I made quick ascent on Conqustador direct 8b - last time I tried it I fell from top for 3 times and this time went down very easily. We moved to Cresciano, where the weather was a bit better and there, I took down few things that I couldn't do few trips ago. So I sent La prue 8b and Un Ange Avec des Cornes 8a+ and on the next day Dream time stand 8a+ and Petit pas tapen 8a. For the next time I left Dream time and quite a lot of things in Chironico.
New season is about to start and I'm trying to finish some projects in Mišja peč. This place has been my playground for last 2 months and I've done some hard stuff by this time. I already told you about some hard routes, but I'm happy I can tell you, I also snet some more. So, around and after new year I have sent another 8c called Corrida, Gorenjski šnops 8b and very rare repeated No fly zone 8b. I have also on sighted Ljubezen na prvi pogled and Šunka, both graded 7c+. My biggest wish is to climb my first 9a and I luckily found one that fits my style. It is Xaxid hostel and I'm very happy, that I already climbed it with just one fall. So fingers crossed for this and of course for the new competition season!
Haven't published anything for a while, so I think I owe you a story. So, the first story is about La sportive legends only. I know, people expected a lot from me and I know I gave my best, but the result wasn't great. I really had not trained a lot before this comp, cause I was working and really didn't want to do a lot of bouldering in this time. This was also the reason that I fell from the top on the first boulder, which took me all the powers away, so I was quite lucky that I managed to climb at leaf one of them. This small "mistake" costed me a lot, but I know everything could turned different other way. Anyway, it was such a nice experience to compete with those pros and to see, that I'm actually not that far from them with my climbing. Hope I'll compete again next year and thanks everyone for such an amazing event!
Okay, the second story is about my rest from bouldering. I usually spend it on sport climbing routes and this year I chose Slovenian Primorska. I needed few days to get used of pumping and after few visits I climbed my first "hard" route. It was Pikova dama 8b and than few days later, I got even bigger surprise, when sending endurance masterpiece Karizma 8b+ in less than 10 tries. Later on, I had a small crisis when trying to send Človek ne jezise 8c, but was able to do moves in Xaxid hostel. After few frustrating days, I finally managed to connect the cruxes in first part and than decided to continue to the top. The conditions were a bit better than last time, so that try was successful for me. That was my first 8c+ with confirmed grade, but I can easily say, that the other two 8c+ (botulin an In time) FA's are even harder than this one. More surprising was, that this route is very long and that I consider my self as a boulder climber.
upper crux in Človek ne jezi se
Karizma, photo by: Luka Tambača
Here's also my movie from Font, if you haven't seen it yet: