petek, 07. december 2012

National championship 2012



I'm sorry to be late with this story, but it was my week, so I was forced to party on 5th of December. I don't regret this day, cuz I had so much fun. Some of my friends had a problems with security guys, somebody took the garbage and put it on his self, some guys removed an old car from a parking place to the road, so yes, we had a really nice time. But anyway, let's talk about competition. I must say that I'm very happy, cuz I won the nationals and become a national champion for a 4th time in a raw. I climbed 3 boulders in 4 tries, which was enough to beat the second one, who sent two boulders. In lead I took 5th position and 7th overall. Also my sister Julija won everything, so for the next year I hope we will see her on the world cups also.


sreda, 28. november 2012

Some rope climbing again

For las few days I decited to cross form bouldering to rope climbing foe a while. But soon realized, that it's not really my style. Specially if you climb in Mišja peč, which is so polished. I wanted to climb Konec mira (8c/c+), but I almost hit the ground once, so I gave up. For a few times I did it with only one rest, but looks like I should rope climbing for a while, to get used on pumping. But I was quite suprised, cuz I sent Sreča vrtnice (8b) in second go (if you don't count one try few years ago) and Matrix (8b) in the same day. so I can say, I'm not the best route climber, but still can do something. I also on sighted Preobrazba graded 7c+.

sobota, 17. november 2012

100. 8aFb or more

Strassenblock traverse is my 100. 8a or more for me. Till today I had 97 climbed problems, but today I added 3 more. The team of 3 climbers (Bizi, Varga, me) went to a boulder spot near Graz called St. Radegund. Thanks to Pašo, we came to a very unusual forest with only 4 block in it. First we stopped at 8a dyno, first climbed by Loskot and named Free Engelbert. First I flashed the traverse, which Bizi and Varga also sent it, graded 7c. Than I gave a flash attempt in dyno, but unfotunately I touched a pad. If you ask my friends, they would say I didn't, but let be honest. So I sent it 3rd go. Later we moved, and I flashed Sunny side up(8a)  and did Strassenblock traverse (8a) in second go. Also Varga and Bizi sent it. Than we moved do another block, where Hinterm Busch und Gusch route is. I heard it's graded 8a, but with using all the holds you can grab, it's not more than 7c. I also tried this 8a+ on the same block, but without success. Below this block, I opened new line, named it Oh long Johnson and I put grade 7c+.



Strasseblock traverse



Hinterm Busch und Gusch 




8a+


petek, 16. november 2012

Chillen und grillen

Ok, I decited to write something about quite unknown place in Austria called Huatluckn. This year I already climbed few hard stuff there mostly on sight and flash, but for red pointing 8b's was to hard for me there. So on wednesday, I had no choice, but to try only dry, hard route named Grillen und chillen. Even this route wasn't completely dry. So when I tried to on sight the route, I thought it's impossible to get over it. I think, I've never tried one route for more than 5 tries in a day, but that day I was forced to keep trying it over and over again to get all micro betas. The route contains only few hard moves, but you have to do everything precisely. So I sent very hard route, which is 8b+ in my opinion (maybe just beacouse of horrible conditions) in 5th try that day.


četrtek, 25. oktober 2012

Brione flash trip

For the first time I put together team for this bouldering trip to Brione. Without giude book and gps after 2 days we found area and all the important boulders we needed to get satisfied. So we started at Molonk 7c which Boško climbed and after I flashed. So I started a flashing trip here. Later I flashed Cellar door 8a and also Boško was close to flash attempt. Later he luckily sent it. We moved to a very nice block near the water where I flashed another 8a named Fake Pamplemousse. Next day we came back and I flashed Frogger 8a. Unfortunately it was to try hard on Amber 8b. On Monday I did something I have wished for a long time- to climb a 8b boulder in Switzerland. In two short sessions I sent General Disarray. In total maybe 5 serious tries from beginning. Last day we climbed few classics and Boško and Bizi sent Frogger. Photos I will upload as soon as I get them. Also I have a video clip from sending Frogger.


sreda, 10. oktober 2012

Angry birds

And we have another 8a boulder called Angry Birds on Jurgovo. I could say it's the best boulder so far I have ever climbed, but everything here is so beautiful. What can I say, I would like to invite all the strong climber to repeat hard stuff and try new projects around. Video follows!

petek, 05. oktober 2012

Prince of darkness

Finally some good news from me! Yesterday I sent my second 8b boulder this year (after Incubator) in Černotiče, called Prince of darkness. After an unsuccessful attempt 5 days ago, when I fell from the top, now I did first repetition after Boško. It's it the best line in this cave, but still, I got some stuff to get done there. I also flashed two 7b's, but unfortunately tractor accident next to area prevent me to send something else. Anyway, I'm glad that we where there and saved man's life. He was sent to hospital, but I think he is gonna be fine. Now the temperatures are going to be lower, so I hope I'll sand something harder.

 See you soon!

torek, 25. september 2012

News

Hello, there!

Unfortunately nothing new it's up, but anyway you deserve to know what's going around here. After failed Championship in Paris I took some rest, but still visited our pearl of Pohorje. I repeated Toleranca 7c+, which was prepared by Izi, I and friends for Boško's first ascent. It's a short problem with very long move and sharp holds. It's not the nicest line, but I have to say thanks to Izi, cuz he cleand up one of the best lines here. Needed two days to send this slab and also fell from the top of it and missed the pad. Luckily didn't hurt my self, so I sent it next try. I agreed whit Izi, so we named it Close to art and I greded it 7c.

 I'm happy that this place is developing and that we find new boulders everytime we get there. Everybody's warmly welcome!

Here are also names and gredes of Jurgovo:

3 (no name)
5a Ginč Bamsi
5c (no name)
6a Bees
6a Komoda
6a Disko Jožica
6a Balista
6a (no name)
6a+ Mesec
6b Poni pa prasec
6b Double matel
6b Miška
6b (no name)
6b Left handed
6b Novi Sad A
6b Lajna
6b+ Al Pacino traverse
6b+ Inflacija
6b+ Botoks
6b+ Traversa
6b+ (no name)
6b+ Osamljen Bin Laden
6c (no name)
6c (no name)
6c Sunny us
6c Right handed
6c Sarajevo
6c Vodni polž
6c Vraga ti
6c Tjuln power
6c+ Jogurt v laseh
6c+ Novi Sad C
6c+ Katapult e3
7a Disco Jocker
7a Zatišje pred nevihto
7a 6a po mamini strani
7a Bizi's face's gonna sort you out
7a Novi Sad B
7a+ Kakovost iz Slovenije
7a+ Full house

7b Tony Montana
7b Grabnvaler
7b Focn tocn
7b Moj, moj
7b Tvoj, tvoj
7b Johny Cash
7b Lingvin
7b Čreva na plot
7b+ Arterija (e6/7)
7b+ Explotion time
7b+ Čudoviti um
7c Reduktor (e5)
7c Close to art

7c Mona Liza

7c+ Toleranca
8a Hiperprodukcija
8a Le belanca

torek, 28. avgust 2012

End of WC

World cup in Munich last weekend was the last competition so here are all results. After qualification round I  ended on first position with all 5 tops flashed. After, I was a bit unlucky, so I made one stupid mistake and ended on 9th place. Anyway, I'm very happy with this season, cuz I made my best result overall. So I'm one of 10 the best boulder climbers in the world. Wish me good luck on World championship in Paris next month!

Rockstar




Previos weekend I was startting on second Adidas rockstars. This is one of the best competitions I have ever attented. Last year I was 7th and this year I was 8th, even (thow) I was 2nd after qualifications. After I went to Zillertal with my dear Eva and my little sister Julija. I was really suprised, cuz Eva did her first 6b+ Fb and Julija did another 7b+. I'm so happy and proud on them. Even I did my first 8b Fb (Incubator) this year, which is maybe easier than the others I've done, but I spent so much time on it, becouse of crazy conditions (almost 30 degrees of C) so it desirves 8b in my way. I also on sighted one 8a named Rain man and sent very bouldery route called Graceland (8b). I also did Clock work orange (7c+/8a) in just few tries.




















        Clock work orange














Eva in 6b+

sreda, 08. avgust 2012

Le belanca

Le belanca is new 8a boulder on Jurgovo. It's been a long standing highball project with really massive sloper. I've been trying it since I saw it for the first time. After trying it over and over again to get right betas, luckily Urh gave me optimistic beta. But it was too hot to stay on this giant sloper, so today I found perfect conditions. I sent it first go today. For this perfect day has also affected new line under Čudoviti um. It's a really nice slab with bad footholds and tricky dyno to the root. This five stars boulder is called Full house and graded 7a+. Also Varga did this one. Next is Adidas rockstar and Zillertal after!

Photo: Anže Varga

sobota, 21. julij 2012

Zillertalers

No matter the weather Neža, Eva, Bizi and I went to Zillertal for a 3 days trip. On thuesday we arrived there in the afternoon and immediately started to climb in Bachhexe sector. I wormed up in surrounding boulders and soon decided to give it a on sight try in Ghetto superstar. I really didn't expect that I'll on sight first 8a+ I'm gonna try here. And here we go again with another 8a+ on sight in pocket. I talked to a local guy there and he said it's hard 8a+ and I thought so too. After he told me all the moves in Land der Hammer 8b/b+, so I tried to flash it. Unfortunately I couldn't hear what he said, when I was on the last move, so I fell with a lot of power left. Second try I sent it. Next day it was a big sending day. Neža climbed two 6c boulders and after she did jump which is graded 7a+. But I was so sad for Bizi, cuz he was so close to his first 8a+ boulder. He climbed stand strat of it- Sundance Kid- 7b+ which I flashed and later I sent it first go from the sit. Sundance sit could be my first flashed 8a+, but unfortunately I did stand start before. Later I sent Schimpansenbaby- 8a+, which I could also flash, but I slipped from the last move. I needed 5 minutes for this one and another 5 minutes for Black Beauty, graded 8a. For the last day we save some energy(not much), so I did El Gauhara- 8a in 3rd go. Bizi did all the moves and Eva climbed her first route in gneiss. Than rain sent us home.

On monday I climbed the best slab in Slovenia (Jurgovo). I named it Arterija and the grade is around 7b+. It's 5 meters high, but worth to try!

I'm sorry there are no photos :(

torek, 03. julij 2012

Jurgovo 2

video
Mona Liza 7c


I'm bored, but also excited about the day, so I will tell you what's been up around Jurgovo today. Bizi and I found few new betas in one realy nice and very high slab project. Unfortunately it wasn't cleaned well on the top so we couldn't climbed it. Grade should be around 7c+ or maybe more- depends of topout, which is as technical as beginning. Later Bizi flashed Tony Montana and sent Lingvin both graded 7b. During that; I cleand up new boulder. I can say it's one of the best boulders in Slovenia. I sent it second go, put grade 7c and named it Mona Liza. Maybe it's not 7c, but who cares- it's so nice. It's so nice to develop new stuff up there including easy ones. There were born 2 new lines: Bizis face's gonna sort you out and 6a po mamini strani both graded between 6c and 7a. There are also 2 new projects- one short slab and traverse from left into Mona Liza which could be 8a or even 8a+. I'm realy looking forward to get back there soon. Maybe I'll be back with some good news! Until there enjoy your time...I'll be in Croatia and I will skydive a little!

ponedeljek, 02. julij 2012

Slovenian Font- Jurgovo

Not so big, but very beautiful place was found few years ago on Slovenian only gneis mountain chain Pohorje. I found few lines up to 7b, but this year Žužel showed me the real shit up there. It's about 7m high boulder with lines up to 7b+ and some projects. Mighty project in the middle of boulder was touched by Klančnik and company few years ago, but unfortunatley it wasn't climbed. Of course, we had to try it, but even we were defeated. I couldn't reach huge sloper with other hand, probably cuz of the realy high temperatures. But I managed to do all the other moves, so I hope some day it will be cooler and I'll be able to send it. We also tried new cleaned line left of it and we did few moves. This one is more technical and a bit higher.
 Few days later I flashed new line which was opened by Izi and I grade it 7b+  Explosion time. After, when the sun went down, also Izi and Bizi were  succeeded. I hope we'll be back soon with more Pads and power.


maybe even 8a



 mighty project (photo: Tomaž Žužel)

sobota, 23. junij 2012

Last line in big overhang



For a long time I haven't written anything but now I'm here with some good news. Today I finished the last line in the middle of our barrier, naming it Dropbox 8a. I've been trying it for long time and it was all just a matter of time. You start in Inbox which contains one very hard shoulder move(7b+) to a good hold. From here you have some technical move which you have to grab perfectly so you can continue to a very strange crossing move. You better don't fall from here, cuz you're already pretty high. After I went with Izi to pretty unknown but very beautiful place called Buncove skale. We were climbing up to 7b+ routes in gneis. Also this place is worth a visit.


Shoulder move


Technical part


sreda, 06. junij 2012

Last man standing

Yesterday I finnaly sent a big project in the middle of our barrier. It was a long standing project, may be cuz of it's hight. It's around 6m high and it contains only 10 moves. The hardest thing for me was to stay on heel and than swing from it. So yesterday I felt strong, so I didn't have to swing and I left my body next to wall. There is still one strange move where I fell once, but now I put my foot correctly and I was on the good hold. After that there are few easy move to the top. It's one of the best lines here, so I hope that you will try it soon. It's nice and it's not limited at all. The name is Last man standing and the grade is around 8a+. May be a bit easier if you are tall.

Also Luka Lindič sent his first 7b+ named Minimal.

Photo: Luka Lindič

I will also write something about last World cup in Vail (USA) which didn't end up really good. I missed the semis cuz of stupid mistake, so I ended on 25th position.

ponedeljek, 21. maj 2012

Wc Innsbruck and two 8a+ Fb

Frist time this year I tasted defeat with ending on 21st place in World cup. Missed the semis for two unnecessary tries. I was really pissed off so luckily Chris had some space in his van. We went to Zillertal, where are really nice gneiss boulders. First we (Jure and Klemen Bečan, David Barrans, Alexey Rubtsov, Chirs Webb Parsons and I) tried left version of American gangster which is graded 8a+. Almost flashed it, than needed around 15 tries to sent it. Also fell on last move in Spirit (8a+) on flash, than easily sent it second go.



Photo: Julija Kruder

nedelja, 13. maj 2012

Gipsy sanding day

Today we visited Zigeunerloch, area near Graz(AUT). First wanted to go to Črnotiče boulder area, but had noone to go with me. So Zorko and I went with my sisters who went to Mitterdorf to train a little. First we wormed up a little, than I tried to on sight one new 7c+ but I fell on the very top. Than I on sighted bouldery rote called Highway star (7c+/8a). After some rest I decided to give a try in a route which I have wanted to on sight for a long time now and it's called Zigeunerbaron graded 8b. Without any problem I climbed it like a real route climber. Route was climbed in 1988 by Christoph Grill and it's 35m high. Zorko climbed Grafin Mariza 8a.

Zigeunerloch cave

petek, 11. maj 2012

Free solo Guernica

On 7th of May I was climbing in local crag Kotečnik. After few routes I felt really strong so I decided to give a free solo try in Guernica 8a (15m). With 100% of trusting my self, I reached the top without any problems. I like this mental game, becouse I can trust rock, (Scarpa) shoes and myself. So everyone who's reading this, don't try to play jackass, if you're not 100% sure you're gonna make it.


Photo: Matjaž Zorko

torek, 08. maj 2012

Melloblocco 2012

Official boulder I sent

Last week, during driving back from Baratro, Fonda made me go with him to Melloblocco competition. We left on tuesday so wednesday we were climbing all day long. I climbed one 8a in Mello valley and some easy stuff around. Next day didn't send anything hard, but was enjoying the sun and nice ambience. Friday was the first day of competition and last dry day. I sent  2 official boulders and only 3 more guys sent one more. So I took 4th place with 4 more competitors.




First official boulder I sent













ponedeljek, 30. april 2012

WC Vienna and 8a+ on sight

Report Vienna:

Again I could make it to semi finals with a bit of luck. I ended on 21st position with 4 climbed boulders. I showed a lot of power in semis, but it wasn't enough to make it to the finals. 4 bonuses were enough and I made only 3 of them. But in all 3 boulders I was close as noone else. I hope I'll have more luck in Innsbruck. I finished on 12 place. My ranking is now #9 place on world cup.



Today I was in Baratro(Italy) and I on sighted Violenza carnale (8a) and Trilogy(first part) (8a+).


Arter first crux of Triology




First semis boulder

Second semis boulder


torek, 24. april 2012

World cup Log - Dragomer

It's the end of second world cup. This time in Log, Slovenia. Even it was local audience, couldn't reach the finals this time. 3rd boulder in semis was set up for my style of climbing, but sweaty fingers took too much power to stayed on slopy volume. After all, with such a strong competitors from all over the world #12 place wasn't that bad, was it? After two world cups I'm on #12 place (last year I was 21st).

semifinals, 3rd boulder

 Cross fingers for next world cup in Vienna this week!

petek, 20. april 2012

World cup Chongqing

First world cup is behind us! I took #14 place which is not that bad, but I know I can do much better. I made a mistake in second boulder in qualification round. I spent too many tries, I got pumped so I couldn't show what I'm able to do. Two days after competition we tried semis and final bouldes and I climbed enought boulders to take  podium. I hope I'll be more lucky in Log.



Don't worry about my health one day before D-day. Wish me the best!

četrtek, 05. april 2012

Happy rest day

Today I had rest day, so I decided to belay my younger sis Julija. She was so close to Dream team 7c+ last time, so she was back to send it. She needed only 3 tries(first go today). I'm so lucky to have such a strong little sister :) We also had a visitor in Kotečnik. Adam Ondra suprised us all with crushing Iluzija 8c on sight! He was also colse to Miza za šest and Botulin, both graded 8c+.

Photo: Luka Fonda

Respect!

sreda, 04. april 2012

Maltatal

Here I am again with some good news from malta (AUT) :

Photo: Andro

Bizi, Andro and me decided to go to feel some gneis. No matter the weather in Slovenia, we went optimistical true Karavanke tunnel. The weather was nice except high temperatures (around 15°C). We wormed up, than we had to wait till sun went down. Bizi had some problems in stand start of Driving at low tide 7c, but latter he managed to stay on jug and finally climbed it. Also Andro was very close. It was his second time bouldering outside, but anyway he sent one really hard slab graded 7a. I tried Pluto direct, Marmelade(broken hold) and Emotional landscapes but without success(way too hot). The only thnig that was posible for today, was boulder without name (called it: Alligator direct 8a+) which has same start as all alligators with straight up finish.

Emotional landscapes, photo: Andro 

 Alligator direct 8a+, photo: Andro