sobota, 21. julij 2012

Zillertalers

No matter the weather Neža, Eva, Bizi and I went to Zillertal for a 3 days trip. On thuesday we arrived there in the afternoon and immediately started to climb in Bachhexe sector. I wormed up in surrounding boulders and soon decided to give it a on sight try in Ghetto superstar. I really didn't expect that I'll on sight first 8a+ I'm gonna try here. And here we go again with another 8a+ on sight in pocket. I talked to a local guy there and he said it's hard 8a+ and I thought so too. After he told me all the moves in Land der Hammer 8b/b+, so I tried to flash it. Unfortunately I couldn't hear what he said, when I was on the last move, so I fell with a lot of power left. Second try I sent it. Next day it was a big sending day. Neža climbed two 6c boulders and after she did jump which is graded 7a+. But I was so sad for Bizi, cuz he was so close to his first 8a+ boulder. He climbed stand strat of it- Sundance Kid- 7b+ which I flashed and later I sent it first go from the sit. Sundance sit could be my first flashed 8a+, but unfortunately I did stand start before. Later I sent Schimpansenbaby- 8a+, which I could also flash, but I slipped from the last move. I needed 5 minutes for this one and another 5 minutes for Black Beauty, graded 8a. For the last day we save some energy(not much), so I did El Gauhara- 8a in 3rd go. Bizi did all the moves and Eva climbed her first route in gneiss. Than rain sent us home.

On monday I climbed the best slab in Slovenia (Jurgovo). I named it Arterija and the grade is around 7b+. It's 5 meters high, but worth to try!

I'm sorry there are no photos :(

torek, 03. julij 2012

Jurgovo 2

Mona Liza 7c


I'm bored, but also excited about the day, so I will tell you what's been up around Jurgovo today. Bizi and I found few new betas in one realy nice and very high slab project. Unfortunately it wasn't cleaned well on the top so we couldn't climbed it. Grade should be around 7c+ or maybe more- depends of topout, which is as technical as beginning. Later Bizi flashed Tony Montana and sent Lingvin both graded 7b. During that; I cleand up new boulder. I can say it's one of the best boulders in Slovenia. I sent it second go, put grade 7c and named it Mona Liza. Maybe it's not 7c, but who cares- it's so nice. It's so nice to develop new stuff up there including easy ones. There were born 2 new lines: Bizis face's gonna sort you out and 6a po mamini strani both graded between 6c and 7a. There are also 2 new projects- one short slab and traverse from left into Mona Liza which could be 8a or even 8a+. I'm realy looking forward to get back there soon. Maybe I'll be back with some good news! Until there enjoy your time...I'll be in Croatia and I will skydive a little!

ponedeljek, 02. julij 2012

Slovenian Font- Jurgovo

Not so big, but very beautiful place was found few years ago on Slovenian only gneis mountain chain Pohorje. I found few lines up to 7b, but this year Žužel showed me the real shit up there. It's about 7m high boulder with lines up to 7b+ and some projects. Mighty project in the middle of boulder was touched by Klančnik and company few years ago, but unfortunatley it wasn't climbed. Of course, we had to try it, but even we were defeated. I couldn't reach huge sloper with other hand, probably cuz of the realy high temperatures. But I managed to do all the other moves, so I hope some day it will be cooler and I'll be able to send it. We also tried new cleaned line left of it and we did few moves. This one is more technical and a bit higher.
 Few days later I flashed new line which was opened by Izi and I grade it 7b+  Explosion time. After, when the sun went down, also Izi and Bizi were  succeeded. I hope we'll be back soon with more Pads and power.


maybe even 8a



 mighty project (photo: Tomaž Žužel)